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The Passion and Pitfalls of National
Team Hot Cooking
The Restaurant of Nations at the Erfurt
Messe Hall 1 is a massive quardrupal-ballroom sized
floor space heavily gaurded (mostly against freeloaders
and annoying press) by grim young men in official
jackets who pace the floor just inside the rope barriers.
In this space, national teams must serve up 110 three-course
lunches to paying guests and a team of tasting judges.
This is no mean feat. Banquet cooking requires flawless
coordination and timing, a keen eye for detail (imagine
if one guest gets one piece of meat for lunch while
his neighbour gets two), and exhausting, intense but
swift manual labour. National teams train up to four
years for this particular category of competition,
honing the same recipes to perfection and even so,
they can encounter any number of problems that need
to be solved on the spot.
Through
the viewing panes you can sense the urgency in their
brief spurts of verbal communication internal sign
language, head bobs and the occasional frown that
are alien to onlookers.
Every day, lunch is served between 12pm and 3pm to
eager supporters, fans and foodies who queue up to
buy tickets for the meal they want to have. All three-course
offerings are displayed in glass cases just beside
the ticket counter to make deciding an easy job. (the
catch being that appearances are sometimes deceptive)
Unfortunately, one of the most frequently-heard comments
in the feedback from diners is that the food is served
too SLOW - not just one or two teams, but many. Now,
with the world's top chefs competing at such high
standards, you have to ask the question "how
can this be?"
The Problem...
Is that in recent years comeptition meals have been
edging towards "too much on a plate" in
a grossly misunderstood effort by competitors to one-up
ther rivals by delighting guests with more. Naturally
every team hopes to hit that "wow!" by balancing
the various elements in their courses.
"The
chefs are trying to make food that is like what you
would serve in a three Michelin star restaurant,"
commented Ferdinand Metz, president of the World Association
of Cooks Societies and culinary judge for the national
team Restaurant cooking category. "This is fine,
as long as you can serve up 110 portions of this recipe.
I think we need to tighten the guidelines to help
them realize that the service part of the competition
matters as well. Currently there are no points awarded
for fast or slow service."
Two of the biggest objectives for judges and organisers
of the Restaurant category are firstly, to select
the best hot cooking team and secondly to ensure that
the paying customers enjoy a good dining experience.
"So far, this has been a problem," continued
Metz. "There's a food design flaw on the competitor's
part, and perhaps there's also a flaw on the organiser's
part. But ultimately such thing serve to refine and
improve the standard of the comepetition as a whole,
so that's what we'll work on for the next event. Meantime,
we've had to put people in the kitchens to help serve
up the food after the judging was over."
Yet Despite The Unforeseen Circumstance...
"...The general standard of the show has been
elevated since the previous event," concluded
Metz. There are some teams that have caused that elevation,
and there are some teams that have not kept pace with
it. There are tradditional countries who have been
in this competition for a long time and are expected
to do well. And we think they will do well. But we
also have alot of new countries - like Bahamas and
Malta, who are here for the first time and they don't
really know what to expect. So it was obvious that
they would encounter some problems, and they have."
A Word From The (Brand New) Small
Fry
Malta (a country no bigger than 42 kilometers long
and 15 kilometers wide with a population of 400,000)
is one of the aforementioned first-timers at the Culinary
Olympics. "Yes we have some little mistakes that
we need to address for next time but I think we're
doing well," said team manager Joseph Vella,
who kindly obliged to an interview in the middle of
the competition. For main course they prepared a traditional
Maltese rabbit, loin roasted with mushroom powder,
shoulder stuffed with minced pork, mushroom fricasse
and Rabbit jus to finish.
The team has been together four years, during which
they've comepeted in about 12 international competitons,
from the Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg and the
Grand Prix in Scotland, to smaller competitions in
Korea and Hungary. "This should be the highlight
for these six guys," continued Vella. "We
got bronze and silver medals and one diploma certificate
for our cold table display on sunday. We are satisfied
with these results... our first time to the Culinary
Olympics. We don't expect much."
Well, we certainly hope to see you rise to your fullest
potential in coming years, Malta. Keep at it!
A Word From TMULT
(Or The-Most-Unfazed-Looking-Team)
While many other national teams were frantically sweating
it out in the cooking booths this afternoon, one team
in particular worked in a manner so completely untroubled
(and were more prone, in fact, to loud guffaws from
time to time) that we just had to stop by and ask
a few questions.
The Icelandic team manager introduced his team as
"mostly chefs in restaurants, while the pastry
chef here has his own bakery". He also explained
that although the team has been together for 4 years,
Iceland has taken a 2-year hiatus from other competitions,
since the 2002 Culinary World Cup in Luxembourg, due
to budgeting challenges. (considering that this team
insisted on flying one tonne of ingredients from Germany
and Holland back to their homeland to practise their
dishes, one can understand how competitions can be
an expensive affair for them, registration fee aside)
"We all live in the same city and we meet each
other alot, so we are good pals, not just the team
that comes together only for training sessions. That's
very important" he explained. So, the secret
of having a good time while in the midst of a high
pressure international culinary competition is quite
simply - friendship.

(Incidentally, the Singapore national team was also
spotted posing - as a whole team, with COFFEE in hand
- for press photographers DURING the competition!
Some teams must truly enjoy living on the edge!)
Chatting With The Judges
Looking very much like medical doctors in their long
white lab coats embroidered with sponsor logos and
embellished with name tags, these folks (who often
appear deep in thought and sometimes walk the halls
in clusters) keep the competition fair and exciting
with their scores and commentary.
Since you've done both, what's the difference in perspective
between judging and competing?
"When you're a competitor your head is down and
you're working working working - you tend to get blinkered
in what you're doing. As a judge you get the privilege
of seeing it from the outside so you can spot where
the mistakes are. Sometimes as a competitor you don't
know what you're doing wrong because you're just going
at it."
- Tony Jackson
What's the most important element in the hot cooking
category?
"In my opinion, it's if what's on the plate
can truly be served to the customer. These dishes
must be created with the intention of winning the
customer back again and again to the 'restaurant'.
However, the customer is not really interested in
the way a dish is cooked, so that's where we come
in as judges - to make sure the food is cooked according
to the proper standards.
Has the recent leap in kitchen technology made
this kind of competition easier?
Technology has moved on around the world and yes,
kitchens have become very technically sophisticated,
with programmes that take care of the item once you
load up the machine, but you still have to know how
to cook. There are still only a few cooking methods
that are right, and the same rules still govern the
way meat and protein toughens or doesn't. It's on
the bone, the animals are still the same. Competitors
today still face similar problems as they did 10 years
ago.
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